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owlfish at 11:25pm on 13/01/2007 under food history
owlfish at 11:25pm on 13/01/2007 under food historyThe Nonesuch was third or fourth Georgette Heyer book I read, sometime back in early December. Heyer rarely goes into detail about what food her characters eat when they sit down at a table or encounter a buffet, but in one scene in this book she does.
Now it's true, I don't know what "à la Mantua" means with regard to beef, and I'm not sure quite what the wax baskets are doing with the prawns and the crayfish. But what I really wanted to know was what on earth atlets are. I asked the OED, and it had nothing to say. I web searched, and my every effort either came up empty or was foiled by atlets being both a common misspelling for atheletes, and a perfectly good word for athletes in various other languages. My exciting new copy of The Oxford Companion to Food was of no help either.
Much as the desire to know what atlets are has been with me for a month yet, it was not quite so pressing as to send me to do serious research on the subject. At least, not yet. But it might soon.
Unless, of course, one of you - dear readers - happens to know.
The repast she set before her guests was certainly enormous, consisting of two courses, with four removes, and a score of side-dishes, ranging from a rump of beef à la Mantua, wax baskets of prawns and crayfish, to orange soufflés and asparagus, and some atlets of palates: a delicacy for which her cook was famous.
(pp. 66-67 in the 2005 Arrow Books reprint)
Now it's true, I don't know what "à la Mantua" means with regard to beef, and I'm not sure quite what the wax baskets are doing with the prawns and the crayfish. But what I really wanted to know was what on earth atlets are. I asked the OED, and it had nothing to say. I web searched, and my every effort either came up empty or was foiled by atlets being both a common misspelling for atheletes, and a perfectly good word for athletes in various other languages. My exciting new copy of The Oxford Companion to Food was of no help either.
Much as the desire to know what atlets are has been with me for a month yet, it was not quite so pressing as to send me to do serious research on the subject. At least, not yet. But it might soon.
Unless, of course, one of you - dear readers - happens to know.
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I must say, tartlets of palates doesn't sound very appetizing for the modern meaning of palates. Palates from what kinds of creatures? But I suspect, presuming no typo there, that "of palates" may mean something like "of various different tastes".
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The palates are going to be from a large animal - beef, perhaps - since they're stuck on kebabs.
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Some dinner, when a rump of beef is considered a side dish!
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From The Thorough Good Cook
by George Augustus Sala
recipes from 1896: a recipe for making Hatelets (the sauce). But it's called Hatelets all on its own with no word "sauce" to complete the name. Still, however, a sauce.
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The same meal is cited by The Old Foodie as well, albeit for another purpose.
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http://www.gianniferretti.it/horsc7.htm (Search for "hatelets" down the page and you'll find it.)
I'll post a translation of the recipe accompanying the picture tomorrow when it's not past midnight.
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414. Palati fritti all'inglese.
Palais de boeuf à l'anglaise.
Imbianchite quattro palati di bue; privateli della pelle e cuoceteli nella pentola; indi levateli e riponeteli in una casseruola con buon consumato; qualche fettolina di lardo e di giambone e un mazzetto d'erbe guernito; quando sono ben cotti e glassati, lasciateli raffreddare e tagliateli, mediante uno stampo, a rotondini della grandezza d'un pezzo di venti lire e disponeteli in una tortiera. Fate ridurre a metà un litro di salsa vellutata con qualche cucchiaio di sugo condensato, a cui unirete un tritume di tre tuorli d'uova sode, ed un cucchiaio di prezzemolo imbianchito, pepe bianco, sale, il sugo d'un limone e un pezzo di burro. Con questo composto stratificate i palati passandoli all'uovo e al pane, e al momento di servire friggeteli pochi alla volta in grasso ben caldo, affinchè prendano colore immediatamente, altrimenti l'impanatura si scioglierebbe.
"Palati"= Palates?
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c. Cookery. The palate of an animal, esp. of a bullock, as an item of food. Now hist.
1747 H. GLASSE Art of Cookery ii. 23 After boiling your Palates very tender..blanch them and scrape them clean. a1756 E. HAYWOOD New Present (1771) 167 To fricasey Ox Palates. 1791 J. BOSWELL Life Johnson I. 255, [Quoting Johnson, 5 Aug. 1763] I remember, when he was in Scotland, his praising ‘Gordon's palates’, (a dish of palates at the Honourable Alexander Gordon's,) with a warmth of expression which might have done honour to more important subjects. 1973 C. A. WILSON Food & Drink in Brit. (1991) II. 55 Mid-seventeenth-century recipes show them boiled with a neat's tongue or beef palates, or in a salad with slices of cold breast of hen or capon.
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There's even a picture with the recipe, and it's quite a showpiece.
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Forms: . 4-5 hastelet, 4-7 hastlet, 5 hasselet, 6 haselet, 6-7 haslett, -e, 7- haslet. . 6- harslet, (7 harselet, (harsnet), 8 harcelet).
A piece of meat to be roasted, esp. part of the entrails of a hog; pig's fry; also, the ‘pluck’ or ‘gather’ (heart, liver, etc.) of other animals, as the sheep, calf, e
so french hastelet (with accent) = atelet
...my guess would be they ate roasted/skewered tongue, possibly with that sauce
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Interesting that the word can refer to the sauce, the skewer, or the whole dish, depending on usage.
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Historic receipts
Re: Historic receipts
Historic receipts
hatelets